The Golden Thread, How Fabric Changed History

BOOK REVIEW - Barrie Mason

The Golden Thread
How Fabric Changed History
by Kassia St. Clair

When you’re obsessed with textiles, like many of us, it is always interesting to learn more about the power these threads have had for others over time. I have a small stack of books on the subject, many of which have come out in the last few years. Kassia St. Clair’s book came out in 2018 so wasn’t on the top of my pile but gold thread, who could resist?

For me this book divides itself into two parts. In the first half we have some fascinating history of the regular suspects – ancient users, silk, wool, lace, and of course cotton. And though I’ve read a fair amount about each, Ms.St.Clair provides interesting insights and is very well researched.  

In many ways each fiber discussion was like the Russian nesting dolls as we see that without that fiber, X would not have been possible and that would have kept Y from ever happening.  As an example, I learned that the Vikings sails were usually made of wool. And the characteristics of this fiber allowed them to travel further, with larger loads, and gave them a crucial edge against their rivals. The Vikings as traders, raiders and colonizers shaped much of our history. Wool, who knew?

As St.Clair notes, “The industry of fabric is older than pottery or metallurgy and perhaps even agriculture. Cloth is the original technology.” And new technology in fiber is at the center of the remaining chapters. I think you will find the vivid descriptions of textile development for mountain climbing, space, and sports very exciting, along with the disturbing history of rayon and the seemingly impossible weaving of spider silk. Give it a try. I think you will find The Golden Thread worth your time.